Terroir: η αλήθεια- Winestealssd.com

Το Terroir είναι ένα από αυτά τα λόγια που αγκαλιάζει ο καθένας στον κόσμο του κρασιού, αλλά τι σημαίνει πραγματικά; Και έχει πραγματικά την επίδραση στα κρασιά που ισχυρίζονται οι παραγωγοί; Ο Rupert Joy σκάβει βαθιά για να το μάθει

χορευτικές μαμάδες σεζόν 7 επεισόδιο 4

Νότια του Condrieu στη βόρεια Ρον βρίσκεται η μικροσκοπική ονομασία Château-Grillet. Τα 3,4 εκτάρια αμπέλων του στις απότομες πλαγιές ενός φυσικού αμφιθεάτρου παράγουν ελάχιστες ποσότητες κρασιού από την ίδια ποικιλία σταφυλιών και εδαφών με τον πολύ μεγαλύτερο γείτονα, το Condrieu. Αλλά έχει αναγνωριστεί από το 1936 ως ξεχωριστό AC, και πουλά για πολύ περισσότερα. Ο ιδιοκτήτης του, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, τονίζει ότι η πρωτοτυπία του κρασιού που παράγεται από τα εδάφη του γρανίτη και την έκθεση με νότιο προσανατολισμό αναγνωρίζεται εδώ και αιώνες. Αλλά μερικοί από τους γείτονές της αμφισβητούν εάν υπάρχει τέτοια διαφορά μεταξύ των τροροειδών του Château-Grillet και του Condrieu.

Η ιδέα ότι συγκεκριμένα τμήματα της γης παράγουν ιδιαίτερα υπέροχα κρασιά δεν είναι νέα. Ο φιλόσοφος, John Locke, ο οποίος επισκέφθηκε το Μπορντό το 1677, σημείωσε τη «ιδιαιτερότητα στο έδαφος» του Château Haut-Brion που τη διέκρινε από τους γείτονές της. Ένα βιβλίο του Abbot Arnoux, που εκδόθηκε στο Λονδίνο το 1728, αποδίδει το μεγαλείο του Montrachet στη Βουργουνδία σε μια συγκεκριμένη λωρίδα γης στην Côte d'Or.

Αυτό που είναι ένα σύγχρονο φαινόμενο είναι η χρήση της λέξης «terroir» για να περιγράψει την ιδέα. Οι πρωτότυπες γαλλικές συμβολές του ήταν εκφραστικές. Μέχρι τα μέσα του 20ού αιώνα, ένα vin terroité σήμαινε ένα ρουστίκ, γήινο κρασί με, στην καλύτερη περίπτωση, ένα είδος γοητείας yokel και, στη χειρότερη περίπτωση, ελαττώματα. Ένα κρασί με goût de terroir (γεύση του terroir) ήταν ένα κακά φτιαγμένο κρασί που είχε γεύση από άγουρα ή σάπια σταφύλια. Η ιδέα του terroir ως ένα πιο θετικό χαρακτηριστικό δεν εμφανίστηκε μέχρι τη γέννηση του συστήματος AC στη δεκαετία του 1930.

Ο καθένας έχει τον δικό του ορισμό του terroir. Ίσως το πιο απλό είναι αυτό του Αμερικανού συγγραφέα κρασιού Ματ Κράμερ, ο οποίος το περιγράφει ως «κάπου». Οι περισσότεροι γαλλικοί ορισμοί, συμπεριλαμβανομένου του INAO (ο φορέας που είναι υπεύθυνος για το σύστημα AC της Γαλλίας), περιλαμβάνουν τέσσερα βασικά στοιχεία: τα φυσικά χαρακτηριστικά ενός τόπου (ειδικά το έδαφος και την έκθεση), το κλίμα του, την ποικιλία σταφυλιών που χρησιμοποιείται και τον ρόλο που διαδραματίζει ο άνθρωπος .

Σάρα τις μέρες της ζωής μας

Λίγοι άνθρωποι αμφισβητούν τη βασική προϋπόθεση ότι τα κρασιά αντλούν ορισμένα χαρακτηριστικά από τον τόπο όπου μεγαλώνουν τα σταφύλια τους και ότι ο άνθρωπος παίζει ρόλο στην έκφραση αυτών των χαρακτηριστικών. Ωστόσο, δεδομένου ότι σχεδόν κάθε παραγωγός κρασιού ισχυρίζεται ότι παράγει κρασιά που σέβονται το terroir και ισχυρίζεται ότι ακολουθεί μια «μη παρεμβατική» προσέγγιση, ο καταναλωτής έχει κάθε λόγο να αναρωτιέται τι σημαίνει terroir στην πράξη.

χαβάη πέντε 0 σεζόν 7 επεισόδιο 7

Οι ρίζες του terroir

Ίσως επειδή η λέξη είναι παρόμοια με το «έδαφος», τείνουμε να συνδέουμε το terroir κυρίως με το έδαφος. Αυτό με τη σειρά του μπορεί να ενθαρρύνει την αντίληψη ότι τα κρασιά αντλούν άμεσα μια γεύση από το έδαφος στο οποίο καλλιεργούνται.

Ένα κλασικό παράδειγμα είναι το Chablis, ένα από τα πιο αναγνωρίσιμα κρασιά στον κόσμο. Παρά το ότι έχει φτιαχτεί από μια πανταχού παρούσα ποικιλία σταφυλιών, η έκφραση Chablis του Chardonnay είναι διαφορετική από αυτήν από οποιαδήποτε άλλη περιοχή. Τα πιο φημισμένα κρασιά προέρχονται από μαλακό κιμωρίδες κιμωλίας, αποτελούμενο από προϊστορικά κοχύλια στρειδιών.

Οι παραγωγοί και οι συγγραφείς κρασιού συχνά συνδέουν μεταξύ της χαρακτηριστικής γεύσης του φινλανδικού ιωδίου και της γεωλογίας της περιοχής. «Πώς αλλιώς μπορείτε να εξηγήσετε τις ιωδιωμένες νότες στο Chablis αν όχι από τη σύνθεση του εδάφους του;» ρωτά ο Bernard Billaud-Simon. 'Δεν βρίσκετε αυτή τη γεύση σε Chardonnays που καλλιεργείται αλλού.'

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